I’ve been hearing about the Oark General Store in Oark, Arkansas, pretty much since I moved to this part of the state. Somehow, though, I had never actually made the trip. I finally fixed that on a recent day when I took the Jeep Gladiator north out of Clarksville, Arkansas, for a little wandering around the Ozark National Forest. The plan wasn’t particularly complicated: enjoy the drive, finally eat at Oark, then see where the afternoon took me. That eventually led me farther west along the Mulberry River to Wolf Pen Recreation Area, with a few stops for photos and just enough water along the way to splash around a little.
The Scenic Drive from Clarksville to Oark
Getting to Oark is part of the experience. Heading north from Clarksville, it doesn’t take long before the road starts working its way into the hills and the scenery changes considerably. The farther I went, the better the drive became, with winding roads, forest-covered hills, elevation changes, and the kind of scenery that makes you quit worrying quite so much about how long it takes to get somewhere. Oark is tucked away in northern Johnson County, surrounded by the Ozark National Forest and not far from the upper reaches of the Mulberry River. It feels removed from Clarksville today, even with good roads and a Jeep, so it isn’t difficult to imagine just how isolated the community once was.
That isolation is actually an important part of the history of the Oark General Store. The store dates to around 1890 and is listed on the Arkansas Register of Historic Places. According to the Arkansas Historic Preservation Program, Oark’s geography once made even a trip to nearby Clarksville difficult, so the general store became an important source of groceries, supplies, and other necessities for people living in the community. It also served as a gathering place and a market for locally produced crops, timber products, and furs. Local history indicates that the building likely served as Oark’s post office during the early 1900s as well. Today, the store bills itself as the oldest continually operated store in Arkansas.
Finally Making It to the Oark General Store
Apparently I wasn’t the only person who thought a trip to Oark sounded good that day. There was plenty of parking when I arrived, but man, the place was packed. Every seat I could see inside was taken, which probably tells you something about how much the Oark General Store has changed over the years. What began as an essential supply point for an isolated mountain community has gradually become a destination of its own. The store says that over roughly the past two decades it has shifted from primarily groceries and supplies toward being a full-service restaurant, while still maintaining some of its traditional general-store role. Its location also puts it right in the middle of an area popular with motorcyclists, hikers, campers, off-road travelers, and people exploring the Ozarks.
With the inside full, I found a spot under the covered outdoor seating area. They had fans running, and to be honest, it wasn’t bad at all. I kept lunch pretty simple and ordered a bacon cheeseburger and a bottled soda. The burger was FANTASTIC. Not “pretty good for a little place way out in the Ozarks” good. It was just a legitimately great burger. I’ve heard plenty about the pies at Oark too, so apparently I’ve already given myself an excuse for another visit.
After hearing about the place for so long, I was glad I finally made it happen. The history certainly makes the Oark General Store interesting, but I don’t think the place survives on history or novelty alone. People keep driving out there because it’s a fun destination, the setting is beautiful, and at least based on my bacon cheeseburger, the food gives you a pretty good reason to come back.
Heading West Along the Mulberry River
After lunch, I climbed back into the Gladiator and continued exploring. From Oark, I headed farther into the Ozarks toward Wolf Pen Recreation Area, roughly 20 minutes or so west of Oark along the Mulberry River. This was less about getting somewhere quickly and more about enjoying the drive. I stopped at a few places along the way, took some photos, wandered around a bit, and managed to find just a smidge of water in a few spots to splash through.
The Mulberry was definitely running low during my visit. This wasn’t going to be a day of dramatic water crossings or watching a raging Ozark river roll past. Still, low water has its advantages when you’re just out exploring. I could get a better look at the riverbed in places, poke around some areas I might not otherwise have stopped at, and enjoy having the Gladiator somewhere other than pavement for a while.
The Mulberry River itself has an interesting place in Arkansas outdoor recreation history. It begins in the Boston Mountains and flows roughly 56 miles before eventually reaching the Arkansas River. In April 1992, Congress included the Mulberry in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System, protecting a combination of scenic and recreational sections of the river. The river is particularly known for canoeing and paddling when water levels cooperate, along with fishing, swimming, camping, and the scenery of the surrounding Ozark Mountains. Wolf Pen is specifically identified as one of the established public access points along the river.
A Stop at Wolf Pen Recreation Area
Wolf Pen Recreation Area is a small Forest Service site directly along the Mulberry River in the Ozark National Forest. It isn’t a developed campground packed with amenities, and that is probably part of its appeal. The Forest Service currently lists six primitive campsites at Wolf Pen, along with river access and vault toilets. There are no electrical hookups or drinking water at the campground. It is the kind of place geared more toward somebody wanting a simple spot along the river than someone looking for a resort-style camping experience.
I spent a little time there walking around, checking out the river, and taking some photos. With the water as low as it was, Wolf Pen probably wasn’t showing off quite as much as it would after a wet stretch in the Ozarks, but I still enjoyed the stop. There’s something I like about these smaller Forest Service recreation areas. They don’t necessarily give you a huge attraction or a checklist of things you’re supposed to see. Sometimes there’s just a river, some trees, a gravel road, and enough room to wander around for a while.
That was really the theme of the afternoon. I wasn’t trying to conquer a difficult off-road trail or find some spectacular hidden destination. I was just exploring. I found a little water here and there, splashed the Jeep through some of it, stopped when something looked interesting, took a few pictures, and kept moving.
A Pretty Good Day in the Arkansas Ozarks
By the time I headed back, I’d finally checked the Oark General Store off a list that had been sitting there since I moved to Arkansas, eaten one seriously good bacon cheeseburger, driven some beautiful Ozark roads, spent time along the Mulberry River, and explored Wolf Pen Recreation Area in the Jeep Gladiator.
None of it required a complicated itinerary. That may have been the best part.
If you’re looking for a day trip from Clarksville, Arkansas, I’d have no problem recommending this general route. Take your time driving north into the Ozarks, stop for lunch at the Oark General Store, then keep going and explore some of the public lands and river access points around the Mulberry. Water levels, road conditions, and weather can obviously change what you’re able to do, particularly along the river, but there’s plenty to see even when the water is low.
And if you stop at Oark hungry, get the burger. I can personally vouch for that part.
